My mom loves to tell a story about lobster.  When she was a kid, she couldn’t stand the stuff—something her siblings agreed on.  The kids’ aversion, though, was my grandparents’ boon.  They could each feast on a lobster, dunking the meat in drawn butter, while feeding the kids something much less glamorous.  They didn’t do it often, because it was expensive, but that they could afford to do it at all was only because the kids turned up their noses.

Somewhere along the way, the kids grew up and caught on.  They, too, wanted lobster and my grandparents’ little secret was blown.  A parallel story is unfolding these days—just with a different generation and a different delicacy.  The star of this story—the one that involves my parents and me—is creamed corn.

Don’t scoff, now.  Creamed corn, of course, is no where near as coveted or expensive as lobster.  But like my mom with lobster, I denied myself the joy of eating creamed corn for far too long.  It’s long been a staple on my family’s dinner table, but my sister and I studiously avoided it.  The sight of it would cause me to roll my eyes deeply and possibly even mock-gag.  My parents’ reaction to this, not unlike my grandparents’ reaction to their kids’ distaste for lobster was: no matter; more for us.

But I’m onto them.  I discovered creamed corn (and the fact that it is, in reality, utterly delicious) earlier this summer and have been making up for lost time ever since.  I’ve tried a couple recipes, but this one is my favorite.  It delivers creamed corn that is sweet and rich and thick.  Unlike many other creamed corn recipes, this one instructs you to avoid a heavy hand when it comes to cooking the corn (it simmers ever so quickly in a shallow bit of water, along with a pat of butter—a process that allows the kernels to retain their color and crunch), sugar (the recipe, in fact, includes none, appreciating the kernels’ natural sweetness) and cream (a mere cup of whole milk thickened with a touch of flour and the stripped cobs’ milk).

Scattered with chives, the result is beautiful and hearty and summery.  And it has me kicking myself for the years and years I was foolish enough to pass on creamed corn.

Creamed Corn
Adapted from Gourmet

12 ears corn, shucked
2 cups water
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup whole milk
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Cut corn from cobs (reserve cobs) and put in a large saucepan with water, butter, 1 tsp salt, and 1/2 tsp pepper. Simmer over medium heat, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5 to 7 minutes.

In a small saucepan, whisk together the milk and flour.  Add a couple of the reserved cobs.  Bring to a boil over medium heat and discard the cobs.   Allow the milk mixture to boil, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Carefully transfer cream mixture and 2 cups corn with some of cooking liquid to a blender and purée (use caution when blending hot liquids). Stir purée into corn and simmer 5 minutes. Stir in chives; season with salt and pepper.