I know I should be digging in my heels, clinging to the last vestiges of summer with all my might. I should be slipping out of the office at even the slightest hint of warm sun. I should be lifting the lid of the grill every single night. I should be roaming around farmers’ markets, arms full of juicy tomatoes and fresh corn. I should be giving all the sundresses I own one last go-round.
But I’m just not.
Instead, I relishing every little cool breeze that blows my way. I’m unearthing my sweaters from storage. I’m fantacizing about apple pies and roasted brussels spouts and rich stews. I’m keeping an eye out for the slightest change of color in the leaves on the trees. I’ve got it bad for fall.
Making matters worse, the weather has turned all cool and crisp and sunshine. The past few days have been much more late September than late August. And, well, I love it. I’m ready.
But I know I’ll regret this attitude come January (not to mention February and March … and, who am I kidding, April). So I’m trying to re-orient myself to pre-Labor Day reality. Happily, this peach cobbler is really helping in this regard. If there’s anything that can snap me out of my autumnal reverie, it’s a layer of diced stone fruit, sweetened up just a little, and capped with craggy, free-form biscuits. When I pulled it from the oven, the fruit juices bubbled up along the edges of the pan and in the gaps between the biscuits, sending up that perfume that only a peach can emit. It’s the smell of summer and it’ll be gone too soon.
Loosely Adapted from David Lebovitz
3 to 5 peaches, depending on size, pitted and chopped
1/4 cup granulated sugar, divided
1/4 teaspoon corn starch
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, divided
1 cup all purpose flour
1/2 cup coarse cornmeal
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter, diced and chilled (plus more for the dish)
1 cup buttermilk
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
In a buttered baking dish, toss together the peaches, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt and the cornstarch.
In a bowl, whisk together the remaining sugar and salt, the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and baking soda. Using a pastry blender (or two knives or the tips of your fingers), cut in the butter until the mixture has a pebbly texture. Using a fork, stir in the buttermilk.
Using two soup spoons, dollop the biscuit batter on top of the diced peaches. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the biscuits are lightly browned and the peaches are bubbling. Allow to cool slightly before serving.