eyes wide, heart beating fast

February 10 2010 by Kristin at The Kitchen Sink in Uncategorized » 29 comments

As far as kitchen thrills go, I’m pretty easy to please. I’m awed by a curl of parmesan shaved from a fresh wedge, the swelling effect a thimble’s worth of yeast has on some flour and water, the way a supremed citrus segment falls away from its pinwheel at the slice of a paring knife, a palmful of popcorn hissing and cracking as the kernels burst, the froth that a dash of baking soda coaxes from a pot of caramelized sugar. These things are all pure magic to me.

So just imagine my delight over a soufflé.

First, there’s a bit of run-of-the-mill cheap thrill to be had: chopped chocolate melting under the heat of scalded cream, whisked from lumpiness to shiny silkiness; egg whites whipped into billowy peaks. All of this, really, is enough for me. Eyes wide, heart beating fast, I could call it quits here, collapsing onto a kitchen stool with a chocolate-slicked spatula, which I would happily call dessert.

But, instead, prodded along by Karen DeMasco, whose orderly, assured instructions have a way of prodding one along, I continued on past the whipped whites and the shiny chocolate when I made this recipe of hers last weekend. Which brings me to the kitchen thrill that flat-out tops all others: the soufflé.

Those egg whites are folded into that chocolate, spooned into buttered custard cups and baked off in a hot oven. There, in the oven, a minor miracle transpires—at least in my book. The cups’ filling, which had previously resembled a thick, chocolatey soup and barely filled the cups to halfway, creeps up, up, up the sides of the cups before it crests the rims, puffing higher still. Visually, it’s stunning (if a little nerve-wracking and short-lived).

Tastewise, it’s a marvel too. It’s rich and decadent, sure, but it’s also light as air. A spoonful dissolves upon the tongue, not all that unlike a whisp of cotton candy made of chocolate. But you only get to that ephemeral bite by fearlessly plunging your spoon down into the soufflé, letting out a little gasp of hot air—just one more bit of magic, I suppose.

Dark Chocolate Soufflés
Karen DeMasco for Bon Appetit, via Epicurious

Note: I had to bake my soufflés for much longer than the specified 12 minutes (probably closer to 20 minutes) and, even then, my soufflés lacked the “flat” tops and “set” edges that the recipe says to look for. Nevermind, though, because they were still delicious.

5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
3/4 cup whole milk
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 large egg yolks

5 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon coarse kosher salt

Place chocolate and butter in medium bowl. Whisk 1/4 cup sugar, flour, and cocoa powder in small bowl. Bring milk and vanilla to boil in heavy small saucepan. Gradually whisk hot milk mixture into sugar mixture to blend. Return mixture to same saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until thick paste forms, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Scrape mixture into bowl with chocolate and butter; stir until chocolate is melted (mixture may look curdled). Add egg yolks and whisk until mixture looks shiny and creamy. (Soufflé base can be prepared 1 day ahead. Press plastic wrap directly onto surface and refrigerate. Bring soufflé base to room temperature before continuing.)

Butter eight 3/4-cup soufflé dishes or custard cups; dust with sugar. Using electric mixer, beat egg whites until frothy. With mixer running, gradually add 3 tablespoons sugar, then salt; beat just until soft peaks form. Fold 1/3 of whites into soufflé base until well combined. Gently fold in remaining egg whites just to blend (some white streaks may remain). Divide batter among prepared dishes. Place dishes on rimmed baking sheet. (Can be prepared 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake soufflés until puffed above rim of dish, tops are flat, and edges are set, about 12 minutes [SEE NOTE, above].

29 comments so far. »
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Jennifer says on February 10 2010 at 2:10 pm:

I love souffles!! You did a beautiful job with them! perfect!
Laura says on February 10 2010 at 2:19 pm:

That was a beautifully written post. And the souffles look perfect for Valentines Day!
Rose says on February 10 2010 at 2:35 pm:

Cooking is such a thrill! I fall in love with the magic every time! Beautiful souffles.
Calantha says on February 10 2010 at 3:06 pm:

Wow, those look fantastic. I still have an unreasonable fear regarding souffles… but I’ll get over it sometime! Looking at these and reading your post sure helps!
Half Assed Kitchen says on February 10 2010 at 3:11 pm:

Gorgeous description. I can almost taste it. Even if I’m not brave enough to make it.
Maddie says on February 10 2010 at 3:15 pm:

I’ve always been fascinated by baking as a science, so thanks for reminding me how magic plays a part! What a delectable-looking finished product, too.
Esme says on February 10 2010 at 4:03 pm:

You and Smitten Kitchen posted almost the same exact thing…great bloggers must think alike! YUM!
my spatula says on February 10 2010 at 11:44 pm:

i’ll take all three, please.
kate says on February 11 2010 at 7:55 am:

The pictures alone are worth a thousand words, but your loving tribute to the souffle makes it even more delicious.
ovenhaven says on February 11 2010 at 7:58 am:

Absolute love this post! Souffles are one of those desserts that always get the “Leave it to the experts” category for me, and my goodness, yours definitely look like the work of magic!
Danielle says on February 11 2010 at 2:36 pm:

I agree with ovenhaven – I’m terrified of trying souffles! Great post. Beautifully written, but not over the top. LOVE!
Coco says on February 11 2010 at 9:24 pm:

Oh these look perfect….i have to go eat a piece of dark chocolate now
Sunday says on February 12 2010 at 4:34 am:

These look beautiful. I just discovered your blog ( took me long enough considering how much time I spend online!) and I just love it. Beautiful photos and beautiful food
Kelly says on February 12 2010 at 7:10 am:

What amazing pictures and beautiful descriptions! I feel inspired to bake!
CookiePie says on February 12 2010 at 10:15 am:

WOW – those are beautiful! And I love your writing
The Rowdy Chowgirl says on February 12 2010 at 12:43 pm:

This was such a well-written post that I got drawn in, even though I (initially) wasn’t interested in chocolate souffles! Now I’m thinking I might just try this recipe, as I’ve been exploring new desserts lately–in fact, just posted about my “dessert initiative” http://rowdychowgirl.wordpress.com/2010/02/11/the-dessert-initiative/
I’m pretty sure I could round up some friends to share the results!
katy says on February 12 2010 at 7:19 pm:

those are stunning — and lovely step by step pictures! definitely a thrill.
Sagan says on February 14 2010 at 7:18 pm:

These sound amazing! I love your writing style; it inspires me to want to go into the kitchen and whip up a seven-course meal. Finishing it with these chocolate souffles. Right now.
treehouse Chef says on February 14 2010 at 7:32 pm:

Foodtastic photos and writing. Looks delicious!
Barbara says on February 15 2010 at 8:53 am:

Yowee! A chocolate souffle! They look divine. You did an amazing job with them. Wish I had some in my kitchen this minute!
my little expat kitchen says on February 15 2010 at 9:52 am:

This is my first visit to your blog and I really like your recipes and the way you write.
I’m a real fan of chocolate soufflé but I haven’t eaten one in ages. Seeing yours makes me wanna go and make a bunch. Your photos are gorgeous.
Magda
Peef says on February 15 2010 at 11:01 am:

Pretty magical indeed. Well done!
ingrid says on February 16 2010 at 9:40 am:

I had a silly grin on and nodded yes through the whole post.
~ingrid
Dawn (KitchenTravels) says on February 16 2010 at 5:26 pm:

Your souffles are so beautiful. And I am in love with those ramekins.
Hannah says on February 16 2010 at 8:49 pm:

I’m with you – the simplest things thrill me to no end. Your souffles look perfect!
Kristin at The Kitchen Sink says on February 17 2010 at 7:12 pm:

Thanks, everyone! You guys are too nice.

Dawn: I got the ramekins for a song at Sur La Table. I couldn’t resist …
Sara says on February 25 2010 at 9:53 am:

Oh man…now I’ve got to try these!
Was also curious where you got those ramekins!!
Avanika (Yumsilicious Bakes) says on February 27 2010 at 12:20 am:

Yum yum yum!! I think this just proves it, I HAVE to bake souffles!!
nikole says on March 01 2010 at 4:52 pm:

such beautiful light.