braise or bust

February 23 2010 by Kristin at The Kitchen Sink in Uncategorized » 14 comments

There was a time when I was deeply skeptical of anything braised. Talk of a big pot, full of vegetables and perhaps a few hunks of meat and braising liquid, would elicit a narrowing of my eyes, a squinch at the bridge of my nose, a pressing of my lips into a thin, straight line. Serious distrust; insurmountable doubt—the origins of which are a mystery to me. Perhaps a poorly executed pot roast consumed during my youth? Maybe a preference for crunch or at the very least an al dente-type texture to my food? An outgrowth of my general impatience, spawning dislike of a cooking method that, by definition, takes a little bit of time? Who knows. But I do know this: I was dead wrong.

As it turns out, braising is an entirely wonderful thing. Set in a slip of liquid (wine, say, or cider or stock) that’s been doctored with some delicious things (garlic, almost always, and maybe a bundle of herbs) and slid into a gently heated oven or set atop a flickering stove-top flame, nearly anything can become tender. Take chicken parts, for example. I’m not in that camp of staunchly chicken breast-averse folks, but the last word I would use to describe a chicken breast or a chicken thigh is “tender.” But that’s exactly what they become after a good, long braise. Fork tender, even.

The same is true for vegetables. Brussels sprouts experience a kind of magic in a braise of cream. The petals of an artichoke, a generally formidable piece of produce, become much more inviting after a simmer in white wine. And imagine an edible, delicious, savory length of silk and you’ll have an accurate idea of what happens to hearty greens (I’m favoring Tuscan kale, these days) that have braised in just a few squeezes of lemon juice. This all, of course, just scratches the surface. I’ve got my eye on recipes for braised cabbage, turnips and, get this, fingerlings braised in butter, too.

In other words, I’m doing my damnedest to correct the error in my previous braise-banishing ways. These days, it’s braise or bust.

Naturally, then, this weekend, faced with an afternoon free of errands and void of sunshine, I could think of nothing better than putting on a lovely braise for dinner. This time, it was seared chicken breasts and thighs nestled in a pool of white wine and chicken stock, along with thick chunks of pancetta, coins of carrot, a dice of fennel, halved shallot lobes, some garlic and a bundle of herbs. Think coq au vin, with white, instead of red, wine. At the very end, in goes a pinch or so of lemon zest, a genious addition that brightens up the whole dish, making the comforting, familiar flavors pop.

This recipe only deepened my commitment to the braise. It’s got me vowing to burn up the remaining winter days (of which there are apparently plenty, if the recently laid blanket of snow (er, slush) is any indication) braising every last thing I can get my hands on. Served over a bed of polenta and ringed by a collar of Swiss chard (which, predictably, was braised too, albeit on the stove-top) this dish wonderful. You, too, should give it a go. Do not be skeptical; do not distrust; doubt not. Take it from one who once foolishly did all these things.

Wine-Braised Chicken with Shallots & Pancetta
Fine Cooking

Serves 4

1/4 cup olive oil
4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 1-1/2 lb.)
4 chicken drumsticks (about 1-1/2 lb.)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
7 oz. pancetta, cut into 3/4-inch dice (1 heaping cup)
8 medium shallots, lobes separated, large lobes halved through the core
4 medium carrots, cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices, large slices cut in half
1 small bulb fennel, trimmed, cored, and cut into 3/4-inch dice
1 large clove garlic, finely chopped
4 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
2 cups dry fruity white wine, preferably Alsatian or German dry Riesling
3 cups lower-salt chicken broth
1/4 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and heat the oven to 300°F.

Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil in a 7- to 8-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the chicken all over with 1 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. pepper. Arrange the chicken skin side down in the pot in a snug single layer and sear, flipping once, until golden brown all over, 10 to 13 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Cook the pancetta in the pot until well browned all over, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Pour off and discard the fat.

Heat the remaining 2 Tbs. oil in the pot over medium-high heat. Cook the shallots, carrots, and fennel, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until its aroma subsides, 1 to 2 minutes.

Tie the parsley sprigs, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf together with twine (or tie them in a small cheesecloth sachet). Add the herb bundle to the pot, along with the wine. Simmer briskly, scraping the bottom of the pot to loosen the brown bits. Add the broth and return the chicken and pancetta to the pot, arranging the chicken in a single layer. Bring to a simmer, cover and transfer to the oven.

Braise the chicken until the meat is fork-tender and just starting to come away from the bone, 35 to 45 minutes.

Transfer the chicken and vegetables to a serving platter with a slotted spoon and tent with foil. Discard the herb bundle. Bring the sauce to a boil over high heat and reduce to 2 cups, about 15 minutes. Stir in the lemon zest and season with salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve sprinkled with the chopped parsley.

14 comments so far. »
| Leave a Reply

Jessica @ How Sweet says on February 23 2010 at 2:12 pm:

I just made beef bourguignon a few weeks ago and braised for the first time. It turned out well!
Maddie says on February 23 2010 at 2:48 pm:

You write so lyrically! This post almost makes me wish winter would hang on a few months longer.

I haven’t ever tried my hand at braising, but you do pose some convincing arguments in favor of it…
Half Assed Kitchen says on February 23 2010 at 6:21 pm:

You’re a wonderful writer and photographer. Thanks for this.
arugulove says on February 23 2010 at 6:45 pm:

Braising is one of my favorite ways too cook. It’s great for entertaining too because there’s little last minute prep.

This combo sounds really good!
gwen says on February 23 2010 at 6:59 pm:

oh this looks delightful! your food and photos and stories are just LOVELY! many thanks to you!
BKBites says on February 24 2010 at 1:37 am:

I made Julia Child’s beef bourguignon the other day and it was wonderful. I have always loved braising especially in winter. This dish looks great.
Andrea [bella eats] says on February 24 2010 at 7:07 am:

Kristin – My husband and I have discovered braising this Winter as well and have become die-hard fans. Have you read Molly Stevens’ All About Braising? It is a staple in our house, with the most wonderful recipes. Brussels sprouts braised in cream is perhaps the most wonderful thing ever invented, and I’m also a fan of a good fingerling and leek braise. Oh, and Italian sausage braised with plums in red wine!!! Yum.
Whitney says on February 24 2010 at 8:55 am:

I braised from All About Braising this weekend! It was delicious. Pot Roast in wine and sage with glazed carrots.
The Rowdy Chowgirl says on February 24 2010 at 8:57 am:

I have GOT to try braising Brussels sprouts in cream. It seems like everyone is talking about this. I’ve deep-fried them very successfully: http://rowdychowgirl.wordpress.com/2010/02/04/yes-brussels-sprouts/ but I’m clearly missing out on something with the cream!
Stephanie says on February 25 2010 at 6:03 am:

Added a little butter and flour to tighten the sauce….and then added a touch of cream right at the end. Great recipe…..delivers a great home cooked braised meal without to much time in the oven.
bridget Hunt says on February 25 2010 at 2:27 pm:

this looks DELICIOUS.
Barbara says on February 26 2010 at 11:01 am:

Braising is king, no doubt about it. In the past, it was used only for tough pieces of meat, but now, everybody is braising everything. And to super results too.
Your recipe looks wonderful, love the photos. Will definitely try braising brussel sprouts. Have never tried that.
Kristin at The Kitchen Sink says on February 26 2010 at 11:18 am:

Jessica: Mmm, I need to make that again soon. Definitely before the winter ends.

Maddie: Thanks so much! And I hope you give braising a try.

Half Assed Kitchen: Thank you. That made my day.

arugulove: Totally agree about using braising recipes for entertaining. Very low stress.

gwen: Thank you!

BKBites: Between you and Jessica, I’m going to be making my own bb before the week is up!

Andrea: I haven’t read it but I’ve heard lots of good things. Your endorsement is tipping the scales decisively — heading to Amazon now.

Whitney: Look at that — another vote for All About Braising!

The Rowdy Chowgirl: Wow, deep fried Brussels sprouts. I’m intrigued.

Stephanie: I’m so thrilled that you gave it a try! Thanks for reporting back. And you make a good point about the relatively short braising time here.

bridget Hunt: Thanks!

Barbara: Thank you!
A Rockridge Life says on March 01 2010 at 2:37 pm:

This looks absolutely incredible–all those onions and carrots–I can’t wait to try it! Perfect for a gray day or any other.